Does a real Bali still exist, authentic and far from the crowds of mass tourism? The answer is yes!
In this guide to the North East of Bali, we tell you about the less visited and more authentic areas of the Island of the Gods.
Although Bali is a world-famous destination and subject to overtourism, luckily there are still quiet areas away from the chaos. All it takes is a little spirit of adventure and the desire to travel and discover the authentic and traditional Bali, which is actually becoming the alternative Bali!
BALI GUIDE: INTRODUCTION
First of all, you need to know that Bali is not a small island, it measures over 100 km from north to south, 150 km from east to west. Undoubtedly, many areas such as Kuta, Canggu or Ubud are super crowded along the few main roads.
But a few kilometres outside the town centres the situation changes completely. Nature takes over, incredible volcanoes act as backdrop to endless rice fields, among a thousand shades of green.
Follow our travel itinerary in the North East of Bali to discover the most authentic and remote areas, immersed in the tropical Balinese nature.
HOW TO TRAVEL TO NORTH EAST BALI
Although the distance is less than 100 km, it can take two hours by car at certain times of the day to get to the North East of Bali. Ubud and Sanur are the closest tourist hubs, about an hour away.
Once you land at Denpasar International Airport in Bali, you have a couple of options for transfers:
- Grab, the Indonesian Uber, allows you to call a driver for low prices, from 350,000-450,000 rupiah, 20-25€, for the north of Bali. Download Grab for iPhone/Android or the similar GoJek (iPhone/Android), you’ll need an Indonesian sim or e-sim, more info here.
- Taxis will be more expensive, but if you are a family or a group of 4 people, it can be straightforward and doesn’t require an app or phone.
- A scooter is the most convenient option, although it can’t be rented directly at the airport, you can use it later. Grab and GoJek also allow you to call cheap moto-taxis, in case you’re travelling light with just a backpack.
Remember to check your Visa requirements before travelling to Indonesia! You can apply for an online Visa to Indonesia and skip the queues at Bali Denpasar Airport.
HOW TO WITHDRAW MONEY IN BALI?
The national currency in Bali is the Indonesian Rupiah, IDR. 1€ is worth about 17,000 IDR in 2025 (1$ is 16K IDR). Credit cards are accepted in most hotels and restaurants, they may charge a 3% surcharge for paying with a POS. In Bali you will definitely need cash at markets, for eating and drinking in warungs, for local guesthouses and short-term rentals, as well as for all entrance fees to temples, waterfalls, etc., unless you’re booking online.
We use our Revolut and Wise cards to withdraw IDR at ATMs without commissions and with the real exchange rate in Bali. Some ATMs at the airport don’t charge commissions and allow withdrawals of 2.5 million rupiah at a time (about 150€), but it’s possible to withdraw more than once.
In the rest of Bali, some banks such as BCA, BNI, or Mandiri have no commissions, elsewhere they vary between 2-5€. There’s usually a limit of 3 million rupiah per transaction, so you may have to make multiple withdrawals in a row. For this reason, we recommend an online account that has no fees for withdrawals abroad and applies the real exchange rate, such as Revolut or Wise.
Yes, in Bali you’ll become an instant millionaire after your first withdrawal of Indonesian rupiah!
ALSO READ: What to eat in Bali, 10 typical Indonesian dishes
HOW TO GET AROUND
The best way to get around Bali is by motorcycle or scooter, to quickly escape the city traffic and enjoy the fresh air of the countryside. Alternatively, a rental car or a private driver are good options, although you may sometimes find yourself stuck in traffic during rush hour.
A single taxi ride can cost between 100,000 and 250,000 rupiah (5-15€) depending on the distance, a car with a private driver between 600K and 1M rupiah (40-60€) for the day. Use Grab to save on fares and book cheap moto-taxis for short trips.
To explore north-eastern Bali on your own, a scooter is by far the best way. You could drive to Lovina or Amed, and rent a scooter from there. Be prepared to spend more and take longer trips to get around by car/taxi.
BALI TRAVEL APPS AND USEFUL LINKS
If you prefer to book excursions online or via smartphone, the GetYourGuide and Klook apps/websites are among the most used for excursions in Bali, offering trips and services of all kinds: from airport pick-up, to tickets for Balinese dances in Ubud or the Kecak Fire Dance in Uluwatu, from boat trips to Nusa Penida to access to various temples such as Pura Beratan or Tanah Lot. Keep your bookings all in one handful app.
We recommend an e-sim with Airalo for short stays, otherwise look in stores for a Telkomsel Sim for a longer trip in Indonesia. You can get 15% off Airalo sims with our code UNLIMITED, or 10% off Airalo as an existing customer with code AIRALOESIM10.
Don’t forget insurance, a must for any trip. We recommend these two insurance companies: the European Heymondo (up to 15% discount for our readers), and the international WorldNomads.
Speaking of insurance, you should get an International Driving Permit (IDP). In the event of an accident, insurance does not cover you if you don’t have an IDP. At this link you can use an agency which allows you to apply for the International Driving Permit card online, and receive it both digitally and physically, in Bali or in your home country (use code: IDAAMILLIONTRAVELS10 for 10% off).
NORTH EAST BALI DESTINATIONS
Here are some of the most authentic and interesting places in the North East of Bali:
- Bedugul
- Lovina – Singaraja
- Batur Volcano
- Amed
- Agung Volcano
- Sidemen – Candidasa
BEDUGUL
Heading north from Ubud, the largest town you come across is Bedugul, on the shores of Lake Beratan or Bratan. Here the most famous attraction is Pura Ulun Beratan Temple, which stands on the edge of the lake, seemingly floating on the water.
Hotels, restaurants and activities revolve around the lake, a hilly area with mild temperatures. To the west, nearby Munduk is known for its hotels and resorts deep in the jungle.
What to see in Bedugul:
- Pura Ulun Beratan: Tourists flock from all over Bali to visit the water temple, the area is very crowded from 10 am until afternoon. Entrance fee: 50,000 rupiah (3€). The site is large and you could spend 1-2 hours here between a snack and some shopping.
- Activities around include taking a boat or pedal boat ride on the lake, camping in the area, walking or hiking to see the lake from above, visiting the botanical gardens.
- The nearby Buyan and Tamblingan lakes offer additional attractions and viewpoints, such as Wanagiri Hidden Hill, Twin Lake Trekking Point, or the Air Terjun Munduk waterfalls.
- Munduk: About half an hour from Bedugul, Munduk offers spectacular views of Bali’s pristine nature.
Where to stay in Bedugul:
- The Blooms Villas: nice bamboo villas and houses, south to Lake Beratan.
- Shankara Munduk Bali: fantastic location on top of the hills between Tamblingan and Buyan twin lakes.
- Munduk Moding Plantation Nature Resort: the top 5-star resort in Munduk, for a once-in-a-lifetime stay.
- Many similar resorts are popping up in the area, here some examples in Munduk.
Bedugul tours:
- Some tours in Bedugul include a visit to Jatiluwih rice fields, as well as the temple and waterfalls. More info here.
LOVINA, NORTH BALI
The town of Lovina in the Singaraja district is located on the northern coast of Bali. The waterfront area is quieter here, less urbanised, a great alternative for a beach holiday in Bali.
Lovina is known for its black sand beaches, of volcanic origin, and for the chance to see dolphins up close.
What to see and do in Lovina:
- Lovina Beach: choose one of the hotels in Lovina Beach for a relaxing seaside stay. Exposure to the north gives both nice sunrises and sunsets. The Bali Sea in front of Lovina is protected from currents and waves compared to the Indian Ocean in the south.
- Dolphins: as mentioned, it’s possible to see dolphins in Lovina, especially between the months of February and May, even near the beach. Boat trips are available.
- Sekumpul Waterfall: a few kilometres inland, the interior of Singaraja offers green hills and forests where many waterfalls flow. The most famous are Sekumpul Waterfall, a gigantic force of nature, and Banyumala Twin Waterfalls. Sekumpul is the most touristy spot, take advantage of your stay in Lovina to come here early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Where to stay in Lovina:
- Lovina Haven Boutique Resort: lovely location to enjoy the sunsets in Lovina.
- The Hamsa: alternatively, admire the sea and Lovina from above in this resort with breathtaking views.
- More hotels with free cancellation in Lovina here.
Lovina tours:
- Book a trip to see dolphins in Lovina.
- Some tours like this one include Pura Beratan Temple, Banyumana Waterfall and the dolphin excursion, with pick-up and drop-off in Lovina.
BATUR VOLCANO
One of Bali’s two active volcanoes, Mount Batur or Batur Volcano, is one of the great attractions of northern Bali. Standing 1,717 meters tall, Mount Batur is relatively easy to hike, either on foot or partly by jeep.
However, you need an authorised guide to climb the volcano, even if you’re hiking on your own. This decision was taken by the Balinese government after numerous accidents, some of which were fatal, and some cases of disrespect by tourists on the volcanoes, considered sacred by the Balinese.
The views are equally beautiful from the top of Batur, as well as from many panoramic points scattered around the volcano, from dawn to dusk.
ALSO READ: Climbing Mt Bromo Volcano, Java
What to do at Mount Batur:
- Hiking Mt Batur: You can hike to the top of Mount Batur in 2-4 hours depending on where you start from. There are some alternative trails such as the Caldera Hike to avoid the crowds, ask your guide. Be aware that during high season there may be several hundred visitors to Batur every day.
- Jeep Tour to Batur Volcano: For the less proactive, jeep tours leave every morning before dawn, to take tourists directly to the top of Batur volcano and watch the sunrise.
- Hot springs: A great idea after watching the sunrise, if it’s not too hot, is to stop at Batur Hot Springs, the natural hot springs on the slopes of the volcano.
- For hiking enthusiasts, consider nearby Mount Abang, a smaller and less frequented mountain that offers excellent views of Batur. It does not require permits or guides.
- Other beautiful viewpoints are the bars and restaurants in the Kintamani area, such as Montana del Cafè or Akasa Coffee (see our map above).
Where to stay in Mount Batur:
- Volcano Valley: an inexpensive stay in Balinese style lodges, close to Mt Batur.
- Search here among the many guesthouses and camping spots with volcano views, or return to your hotel in Bedugul, Ubud, or Lovina.
Mount Batur tours:
- An example of Sunrise tour to Batur volcano, including breakfast and licensed guide.
- This jeep excursion is pricier, stopping at the hot springs too.
AMED, NORTH EAST BALI
Continuing the exploration in a clockwise direction, we head towards Amed, Karangasem region, in the far North East of Bali. As you approach the narrow coastal area nestled between the sea and the Lempuyang mountain range, the road to Amed offers unique views at every turn.
We recommend Amed to escape the frenetic pace of the south of the island, and immerse yourself in the “real Bali of 30 years ago”. Here you won’t find heavy traffic or loud parties, but fishing villages, quiet guesthouses and restaurants facing the sea instead, in a slow and relaxed atmosphere.
What to do in Amed:
- Beach and sea: Amed is also known for snorkelling and diving. Here you can go diving and admire the wreck at the Japanese Shipwreck Point, and a small underwater temple. The dark sand beaches face the sheltered Bali Sea, usually calm. In addition to the central Amed Beach, we recommend Lipah Beach and Selang Beach.
- Panoramic views: the sunsets over the sea from the hills of Amed are unique, dining with a view at Joli Best View Cafe or at Warung Lebah Sea View will give you unforgettable moments.
- Lahangan Sweet: the other great natural attraction in Amed are the valleys and mountains inland. Venture through narrow slopes to reach spectacular panoramic points, above all at Lahangan Sweet. This area offers wonderful views of Agung volcano on one side, and the sea in the distance on the other side. The entrance fee is 50K rupees, reachable by scooter or by jeep ride (another 50K IDR per person) for the last dirt stretch. A beautiful area to spend a couple of hours between photos and breathtaking views.
Where to stay in Amed, Bali:
- We suggest choosing a nice seaview stay, such as Alur Beach Homestay close to town, or Amed Santorini Villa a bit further.
- Browse more hotels in Amed here.
Amed tours:
- You can snorkel on your own or join this Snorkelling tour to the Japanese Shipwreck.
- If you’re not riding a scooter, ask at your hotel for a ride to Lahangan Sweet.
AGUNG VOLCANO
Here’s the other active volcano in Bali, the most important, as well as the highest and most sacred mountain on the island: Mount Agung.
At 3,100 meters, Agung Volcano is visible from everywhere in Bali on a clear day, especially in the morning when there are fewer clouds and haze.
Agung is worshipped as a deity by the Balinese, who over the centuries have learned to fear it for its eruptions, and thank it for the abundance of rain and fertility. In fact, Mt Agung influences the climate throughout North East Bali, known for its fertile and lush lands. Every day clouds form around the cone of the volcano in the most incredible shapes.
What to do at Mount Agung:
- Hiking Mount Agung: Being a steep mountain over 3,000m, the only way to climb Agung Volcano is on foot. Here too, you need to have a local guide who can plan the schedule and knows the paths and climatic conditions of the volcano. There are 3 main routes, the duration varies between 5-8 hours to reach the summit, leaving shortly after midnight.
- Panoramic points: Agung Volcano is also famous for being one of the most special backdrops in Bali. In addition to Lahangan Sweet in Amed, the most famous photo of Mount Agung is the one taken from Pura Lempuyang temple, which we talk about in detail below.
- Tirta Gangga: on the way back from the volcano, you could stop at Tirta Gangga, a beautiful garden with fountains and ponds, full of red and orange lucky carps.
- Pura Besakih: the most sacred temple complex for the Balinese is Pura Besakih, as visited as it is vast. Pura Besakih consists of 23 temples that gradually climb the slopes of Mount Agung. The ticket price (150K rupees per person) includes a guide who takes you up and down between the temples in the spiritual area. Again, try and come early in the morning to avoid the many bus tours.
Where to stay in Mount Agung:
- If you’re looking to stay in a local guesthouse at the volcano’s foot, check out Alamku Bungalow.
- Alternatively check Sidemen or Candidasa for a wider choice.
Mount Agung tours:
- We recommend finding a local guide and agreeing on the route to climb Agung Volcano.
- If you prefer the shorter route, check out this guided tour to Mount Agung.
- The ticket to famous Pura Lempuyang (see below) costs 150,000 rupiah (9€). There are many tours like this excursion to Pura Lempuyang and Pura Besakih, stopping in Tirta Gangga and including all transfers.
Is it worth visiting Pura Lempuyang in Bali?
Let’s open a chapter to talk about Pura Lempuyang, a place that has become as well-known as it is discussed in Bali.
The famous photo at Pura Lempuyan (above) in which you are immortalised between the arches of the temple (called “Gates of Heaven“) that align with the volcano in the distance, is among the most desired by travellers who go to Bali.
Watch out: the experience risks easily turning into a tourist trap. The place is over-saturated, long queues of two or three hours form in the morning, for a moment that lasts a handful of seconds. In addition, the trick of the reflection in the photo is given by a mirror placed under the camera, which in person loses its magic. What wouldn’t we do for a souvenir photo!?
That said, the photo is indeed memorable. After being there in 2018, at the time having to queue for 20 minutes, now we often read about negative experiences due to overcrowding. That’s why we were so glad to choose to visit Lahangan Sweet last time we were in Bali, an equally beautiful and above all quiet alternative to admire the Agung Volcano. The choice is yours!
SIDEMEN – CANDIDASA
We close our itinerary to the North East of Bali on a high by returning to the sea. On the eastern side of Bali, Candidasa is a coastal destination loved by locals, still authentic and not as developed as other parts of the island.
Together with the rice paddy area of Sidemen (also Sideman), we recommend it for a day visit, or even to stay a few nights in the beautiful region of Karangasem.
What to do in Sidemen and Candidasa:
- Sidemen: known for its bright rice paddies, still largely untouched by urbanisation. There isn’t really a final destination in Sidemen. The best part is riding through the valleys on a scooter or bicycle, marveling as you pass the various rivers, rice paddies, and stretches of forest, with the Agung Volcano ready to peek out in the background.
- Panoramic spots: some small bars and guesthouses with a view allow you to enjoy Sidemen in perfect tranquility.
- Candidasa: this seaside town offers long wild beaches, loved by surfers who choose it as an alternative to the more famous Uluwatu.
- Taman Ujung: or Ujung Water Palace, is a large park with gardens, pools and fountains, a much-loved attraction for Indonesians in eastern Bali. Very exposed to the sun, be careful during the hottest hours!
- Virgin Beach: among the various beaches in Candidasa, we mention Virgin Beach towards the north. A little slice of paradise where you can spend the day at the beach, equipped but not over-exploited.
Where to stay in Sidemen – Candidasa:
- Kanda Homestay or Buntera Homestay Sidemen are nice guesthouses managed by locals in Sidemen.
- Alam Candi Resort: a beautiful resort in a top beachfront location in Candidasa.
- Check stays in Sidemen and more options in Candidasa.
Sidemen – Candidasa tours:
- In Sidemen you can join a guided hike among rice paddies and nature.
- This interesting tour includes stops at Sidemen and Ujung Water Palace in Candidasa.
HOW MANY DAYS IN NORTH EAST BALI?
We recommend spending 4-5 days in the North East of Bali, to visit the most significant places such as the volcanoes and Amed without rushing. You could spend 2 nights in Lovina or inland in Bedugul, and 2-3 nights at the seaside between Amed or Candidasa.
Ideally a week would be perfect, but obviously it depends on how many days you have available for a trip to Bali and Indonesia.
The east of Bali is also the starting (and arrival) point for the Gili Islands, Lombok, or Nusa Penida. From the port of Padang Bai, daily ferries leave for the three small islands Gili Air, Gili Meno, Gili Trawangan, a nice tourist destination for a relaxing beach stay.
The trip from Padang Bai, Bali, to the Gili Islands takes about two hours, we recommend the Ekajaya company for a quick crossing in the morning. Always check the weather forecast and be flexible, sometimes ferries are postponed by a few hours or a day in case of rough seas.
Read our articole about Seasons and best months to visit Bali, whilst we talk in depth about the islands near Bali in our post Sea and islands in Bali: Nusa Penida and the Gili Islands.
CONCLUSION AND RELATED POSTS
This ends our guide to North East Bali. You can find more information about Bali in our related articles, or leave a comment below.
Enjoy your trip to Bali!
READ ALSO:
Bali: what to do in Ubud in 5 days
What to eat in Bali: 10 typical Indonesian dishes
Best beaches in Bali by region
Bali ceremonies, culture and festivals
Guide to seeing Komodo Dragons and Padar Island
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TRAVEL INSURANCE
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